How to trim a cat's claws

Trimming a cat's claws takes a few minutes and a good pair of clippers. Take off only the sharp tip, well away from the pink core. Do a paw or two at a time, reward your cat, and stop at the first sign of stress. Most indoor cats need a trim every two to four weeks, though some need it less often.

Why trim claws

Claws grow throughout a cat's life. Outer layers wear away and shed as the cat scratches and climbs. A cat that gets little exercise or scratches little may carry long, sharp claws. These can snag on carpets and furniture, scratch skin and, in older cats, curl into the paw pad. See paw pads.

A trim does not stop a cat from scratching. Scratching is normal and helps the cat mark territory, stretch and shed old claw layers. Give your cat a good scratching post as well. See scratching for more on why cats do it.

Trimming is a better answer than declawing. Declawing removes the end bone of each toe. It is banned or restricted in many countries and some regions, and veterinary bodies widely oppose it as a routine procedure. Ask your vet about alternatives, and check your local law.

What you need

• Cat claw clippers. Choose clippers made for cats, or small scissor-style nail clippers. Keep them sharp. A dull blade crushes the claw.
• Good light. Daylight or a bright lamp helps you see the inside of the claw.
• Treats or a favorite food. Use something the cat loves.
• A calm, quiet spot. A comfortable seat where you can hold the cat on your lap works for many people.
• A helper (optional). A second person can offer treats.
• A clean cloth. Keep it near, in case of bleeding.

Know the quick

Each claw has a pink core called the quick. It contains blood vessels and nerves. Cutting it hurts and bleeds. In a cat with pale claws, the quick shows as a pink triangle in the middle of the claw. In a cat with dark claws it is harder to see. Cut only the clear, curved tip in front of the quick, and leave a safe gap.

If you cannot see the quick, take off only a very small piece at the tip. If in doubt, cut less. You can always trim again next week.

Step by step

1. Get the cat used to paw handling first. For a few days, touch your cat's paws for a second or two while it is relaxed, then give a treat. Gently press a paw pad so that the claw extends. This is how you will see the claw. Over several days build up to holding each toe for a few seconds. A clicker can help; see clicker training.
2. Show the clippers. Let the cat sniff them. Touch a clipper against a claw without cutting. Give a treat.
3. Pick a moment. Choose a time when the cat is sleepy or has just eaten. Avoid a time when the cat is playful.
4. Hold the paw gently. Hold the paw in one hand. With your thumb on top of the toe and your finger underneath, press softly so the claw extends. Do not squeeze hard or pull.
5. Look at the claw. Find the quick. Plan to cut the tip only.
6. Clip once. Place the clippers across the claw, at right angles to it, and cut off the sharp tip in one smooth motion. Do not cut at an angle, which can split the claw.
7. Reward immediately. Give a treat and praise, then stop or move to the next claw if the cat is still calm.
8. Do a few claws a session. Starting with two or three claws is fine. Trim the rest later in the day or the next day.
9. Handle the back claws. Back claws usually need trims less often than front claws.
10. Finish with a game or a meal. The cat then links trimming with good things.

If you cut the quick

Stay calm. Hold a clean cloth or gauze against the claw with light pressure for a few minutes. Keep the cat quiet. Most small cuts stop bleeding on their own. Call your vet if it keeps bleeding, if the claw looks damaged, or if the toe swells or looks sore in the following days.

How often

Many indoor cats need a trim every two to four weeks. Young, active cats that scratch a lot may need few trims. Older cats often need more attention because they scratch less and their claws can thicken. Check your older cat's claws every week or two.

Common mistakes

• Cutting too much at once.
• Cutting into the quick.
• Restraining a struggling cat by force. This teaches the cat to fear trims. Take a break.
• Using human clippers or dull blades.
• Trimming when you are in a rush.
• Wrapping a cat in a towel as a first step without any practice. Some cats do well with a towel, and others panic. Work up to it.
• Ignoring the dewclaw, the small claw higher on the front leg. See dewclaw if you want to know where it is. It does not touch the ground, so it can grow into the skin.
• Expecting trimming to protect furniture on its own.

When to call a vet or get help

Ask your vet or a professional groomer to show you how, or to do it, if:

• Your cat will not tolerate handling after several weeks of patient practice.
• A claw has grown into the paw pad.
• A claw looks thick, cracked, bleeding, discolored, or the toe is swollen or red.
• Your cat limps, licks its paws a lot or flinches when you touch a foot.
• Your cat has dark claws and you are unsure where to cut.
• You think your cat may be in pain from arthritis and holds its paws stiffly.

Summary

• Trim only the clear tip, well in front of the pink quick.
• Do it in short sessions with treats, a few claws at a time.
• Provide a scratching post. Trimming does not replace one.
• Old claws can curl into the pads, so check older cats often.
• Ask a vet or groomer for help if your cat resists or a claw looks damaged.