How to brush a cat

Brushing a cat removes loose hair, spreads skin oils, finds lumps and parasites early and reduces shed hair around the house. A short-haired cat usually needs a brush once a week. A long-haired cat often needs it daily. Go slowly, keep sessions short, and stop before your cat gets tense.

Why brushing matters

Cats groom themselves, and much of their day goes to it. A cat's tongue is covered with tiny backward-facing hooks, which lift loose hair. The cat swallows much of it. Brushing takes some of that hair out before it reaches the stomach, which can mean fewer hairballs.

Brushing also helps older cats and heavy cats that cannot reach their backs, hips or the base of the tail. It lets you check the coat and skin for fleas, dandruff, scabs, bald patches and lumps. In a long-haired cat it prevents mats, which pull on the skin and can hurt.

Gentle brushing can bond you to your cat. Cats groom each other as a social act (see allogrooming), and many accept a brush as a similar kind of touch.

Choosing tools

Tools vary by coat. Ask a groomer or your vet if you are unsure.

• Short, smooth coats. A soft rubber brush or a fine-toothed comb works. Some cats like a grooming mitt.
• Long or thick coats. A wide-toothed metal comb and a slicker brush are common. A comb with both wide and narrow teeth lets you work from coarse to fine.
• Double coats. A cat with a double coat has a dense undercoat below the longer guard hairs. An undercoat rake or a comb that reaches the lower layer helps in the shedding season.
• Mats. A dematting comb with blunt, curved teeth can open small tangles. Do not use scissors. See the section on mats below.
• Soft cloth. A damp cloth wipes dust and loose hair from a cat that will not accept a brush.

Pick tools that feel smooth and have no sharp points. Check that metal teeth have rounded tips.

How to brush, step by step

1. Choose a calm time. After a meal or after play, when the cat is relaxed, is a good moment. Avoid times when the cat is wound up.
2. Start small. Let the cat sniff the brush. Stroke the cheeks and neck with it for a few seconds. Give a treat or a bit of food and stop. Repeat over several days.
3. Work with the lie of the fur. Brush from head to tail with light strokes. Most cats like the back, cheeks and chin best. Many dislike the belly, legs, tail and base of the tail.
4. Use short sessions. Two to five minutes is enough at first. End while the cat still seems happy.
5. Comb long coats in layers. Hold a section of fur up, comb the lower layer first, then lower the section and comb the layer above it. Check behind the ears, under the chin, in the armpits, on the belly and around the tail, where mats form most.
6. Watch the cat. If the tail lashes, the skin ripples, the ears turn flat or the cat turns to bite, stop. Respect that signal. Try again later in a shorter session.
7. Finish well. Give a treat, a game or a meal. Your cat then links brushing with something good.
8. Clean up. Remove hair from brushes and the floor. Wash tools from time to time.

How often

• Short coats: about once a week. In spring and fall, many cats shed more, and brushing two or three times a week helps.
• Long coats: daily or near daily. Breeds such as the Persian, Maine Coon and Ragdoll have coats that tangle if neglected, though coats vary from cat to cat.
• Older and overweight cats: these cats may groom less, so brush more often. Gently check their backs and hindquarters.
• Hairless and very short coats: these cats still need skin care, but not brushing in the usual way. Ask a breeder or your vet.

Dealing with mats

A mat is a knot of fur that tightens against the skin. Small ones may come apart with a comb, if you hold the fur at the base to avoid pulling the skin. Work from the tip of the mat toward the skin, a little at a time.

Do not cut a mat out with scissors. A cat's skin is thin and folds easily, and it is easy to cut it by accident. If a mat is tight, large, painful or close to the skin, ask your vet or a professional groomer to remove it. Severe matting may need sedation or anesthesia.

Common mistakes

• Brushing for too long. Stop sooner than you think you should.
• Pulling at tangles.
• Using a dog brush that is too harsh for a cat's skin.
• Brushing against the grain when the cat is not used to it.
• Forcing a cat to be held down. The cat learns to fear the brush.
• Bathing a cat to deal with shedding or mats. Wet mats tighten. Most cats do not need baths. Ask your vet first.
• Ignoring a change in coat. A greasy, dull or patchy coat can point to illness.

When to call a vet or get help

Call your vet if you find any of these while brushing:

• Bald patches, red or scabbed skin, or sores.
• Black specks that turn red when wet, which can be flea dirt.
• A lump that is new or growing.
• A cat that over-grooms, which can be a sign of stress or skin disease. See overgrooming.
• A cat that yowls or flinches when touched in one place.
• A severe mat or a coat so tangled that the cat cannot move well.
• A dull, greasy or unkempt coat in a cat that used to groom well, especially an older cat.
• Repeated hairballs, retching with nothing coming up, or loss of appetite.

Summary

• Brush short coats weekly and long coats daily.
• Keep sessions short and pleasant, with treats afterward.
• Never cut a mat with scissors. Get help for bad ones.
• Use brushing to check skin, coat and body.
• Report lumps, bald patches, sores and sudden coat changes to your vet.